Johannesburg and Melbourne

I have never been to South Africa. If you would have asked me 3 months ago whether I would have two future sons-in-law both born and bred in South Africa, I would have looked strangely at you.

My connection to South Africa commenced over 30 years ago when I was learning at Kerem B’Yavneh. Naturally, I found them “closer” to Australians, followed by the English, and the non New York, Americans: New Yorkers were another species altogether, as removed as Israelis. One of my Chavrusas back then was a young earnest Masmid (always learning) named Stanley Moffson, now known and loved throughout South Africa as Rabbi Shmuel Moffson of Ohr Someach fame. There were other South Africans, but I don’t even remember their names.

We could share cricket with the South Africans and Poms, but that was it. On Thursday nights we had Mishmar, where traditionally one would endeavour to learn all night. We didn’t learn all night, in general. By about 1am our brains were mush, and the words really just spun on the page (at least that’s true of me). We had a tradition of going to the basketball court, and playing 5 a side soccer for the rest of the night. Here again, the Poms and South Africans, Aussies, and Europeans studying at KBY would “go for it” as if we were representing our country. I still remember one mature English guy who used to play as sweeper and he had me on a string. I couldn’t ever get passed him: the memory still frustrates.

By the time my older son went to learn at KBY, they had a gym. This was a great idea. You need to have outlets, especially for the kids of our day, but I digress.

So, here I was an Avel no longer saying Kaddish, and our youngest daughter is engaged to a nice young man from J’Burg. We try to organise dates, but my wife is in New York for the engagement of our middle daughter, also to a J’Burger who has been in the States for a while. It was nigh on impossible to re-route and change things for my wife so she could also make the J’Burg engagement. I offered to try to book a flight which would take me to NY and then to J’Burg so I could be at both, but my wife insisted that if I’m at both, then she has to be at both. Fair enough too.

It was high season. I managed to get a flight on a full plane via Perth. On the way back I travelled on Kratzmech, and that was a Mechaye because there was plenty of room (and it was Qantas).

Arriving just after 5am in the morning, I was picked up by my daughter and the future Chosson. We dropped my daughter off, and I went to Shule on the Thursday. I didn’t realise it but I had sat (as I usually do) in the back of the Shule (the Chabad house in Sandton under Rabbi Yossi Hecht who was overseas), and the regulars thought that I was a Schnorrer. Now, if they had only had given me some Tzedoko!

I was called up to the Torah as Cohen, and although I’m uncomfortable saying HaGomel (according to the view of the Rav, Rav Soloveitchik given how relatively safe flying is), I did so and not become controversial. The Mechutan was also sitting in a back corner, and I didn’t notice him and hadn’t approached.

Davening ended and everyone shook my hand and said Sholom Aleichem and that was that. They remarked later that they were expecting me to pull out a few sheets of paper testifying that I was a genuine collector.

The thing that struck me was that apart from two dressed in dark suits, the rest of the Minyan looked “ordinary”. They weren’t bearded, were casually dressed, etc. I wondered what the attraction was to coming so early to Shule so early during the holidays. I know that mainstream Shules in Melbourne struggle to get a Minyan each day. The Mispallelim come three times a year and if you are lucky to a Yohr Tzeit. These guys, as I saw came for Shacharis and Mincha/Ma’ariv and I was to learn that this was not unusual.

As I was still technically an Avel, I did not allow myself to go touring and made do with the gym/jacuzzi/shvitz facilities at my hotel. That was therapeutic, and was a Menuchas HaNefesh and Guf which I really needed. My wife needed it as well, but she was in the snow of New York, wearing out the American Express card.

In my travels, I noticed that there seemed to be one and one only Kashrus organisation. There were no maverick entrepreneurial Rabbis who went off on their own for “utopian interests” which were really for “our” benefit. The result was that I could go into Woolworths and pick out items and find a stamp, a single stamp, in much the same way as the OU operates. What a Mechaye. Why was it happening here and in Melbourne we seem to have two Kashrus organisations: Kosher Australia and Adass, as well as the more recent  smaller maverick operation run by R’ Rabi. I won’t even start writing about the mess in Sydney where they simply can’t get their act together and separate Kashrus from Money, and agree on a single operation for all, without even a smell of self-interest.

I then asked where the so-called Charedi community “hung out”. I was to learn that J’Burg was pretty much void of (Hungarian) Chassidim. There was no “highest standard” Hechsher run by a separate Beis Din, where OO is EE, and separatism is a way of life. No, here, the Rabbinic institutions were set up by Litvaks. Even the Chief Rabbi claimed to be a Telzer, even though he apparently had learned only in South Africa.

What of Chabad? They certainly existed and were everywhere with really professional Chabad Houses augmenting the large choir-style Shules. I bumped into the charismatic R’ Sholom Ber Groner, who I knew in Melbourne. In fact, he gave me goose bumps each time I spoke with him in learning because so many of his mannerisms reminded me of his saintly father. He told me that the Ramash נ’’ע had written a letter to the Rabbonim many years ago that they should always work within the existing Rabbinical organisations and not separate themselves into another group. The Ramash was of course quite brilliant, and it came as no surprise that such sage advice was given. The result was that the Litvaks and Lubavitchers had mutual respect and genuine Chavivus. They worked together. The Beis Din is Litvak heavy but universally respected. There was a time when Chalav Yisrael was difficult to obtain, but they managed. They have “Mehadrin” Shechita which effectively means Chassidishe Shechitah. You can find that on menus in fleishig restaurants.

I guess the overall feeling had been of peace and fraternity between Rabonim, and I would argue that this is South Africa’s secret. There are no fifth columnists and private hashgochas and certainly no aspersions being cast around that “I’m frumer than you”.

The “Yavneh College” style school also impressed me. The primary school is mixed, but the high school is separate between males and females, and the males who want, have a Mesivta program where they can come back at 7pm for more learning. I was gob smacked. If something like this existed in Melbourne, with non Charedi teachers, I think Yavneh would really differentiate itself and move to a higher level of Chinuch. Again, I digress.

Yet, despite all this, many Jews from SA left. The apartheid was horrible and I detected racist feelings amongst Afrikaaners. When I suggested that it would take a generation or two of education and opportunity for reform (on the criminal level) to materialise, I was told “No, it will never change”. I loved watching the B’Nei Cham, with their ultra thick hair and perfect teeth walking around the Mandela mall. As someone who came from a persecuted people, I felt a natural affinity. I spoke with anyone who would talk to me. I could have done this for weeks. I loved them, I just felt that I had a duty to lift their morale and make them feel entirely comfortable. I tipped them too much, but what the heck. Their names were just wonderful. Names like Romeo, Delicious, Precious, etc were common place. The ones who worked in the Chabad houses were very well looked after and respected as human beings and I just loved being in that type of morality. The pejorative “Shvartzer” never passed my lips. What was Tzippora? What about Batsheva? What about our Sephardi brothers and sisters. Who are we to comment about any such things.

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Where was the Reform and Conservative movements, let alone the neo conservadox style movements? They barely existed. Why? In a place where Orthodoxy exudes peace, friendship and a typically Chabad and Ohr Sameach non judgemental approach to human relations, this is the most powerful antidote to counter these inaccurate and inauthentic branch offs from authentic traditional Judaism.

I came away with a great feeling. Yes, there are some security issues. Yes, you need to not go on your own without advice etc. There are challenges. As a community, though, I have to say that in general, although we might have more Kollels, their institutions achieve so much more and are more outward looking and manage to enfranchise individuals.

Disclaimer: I was only there for a week, and no doubt I was on a high, and perhaps ignorant and oblivious to various issues. This is my overall impression, however. In Melbourne, if you pass someone from a different “caste” you’d be lucky if they acknowledged you with a Good Shabbos when passing them. We have much to learn, not the least of which is learning to mind our own business and not whispering about every “bad” thing that happens in someone else’s family.

Author: pitputim

I'm a computer science professor in Melbourne, Australia. I skylark as the band leader/singer for the Schnapps band. My high schooling was in Chabad and I continued at Yeshivat Kerem B'Yavneh in Israel.

19 thoughts on “Johannesburg and Melbourne”

  1. The South African community is indeed special, as you have so clearly pointed out.

    When it comes to support and patronage of Kosher establishments they are second to none. For the size of the kehilla they have far more kosher eateries and outlets than us, as I am sure you can testify to.

    Your insight into the reason for this could well be the answer and of course the derech we should all pursue.

    It’s not ‘rocket science’ or even deeply profound hashkafah, merely the proper application of mentschlichkeit which, with as little thought and consideration, we are all capable of.

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    1. The reason they have more eateries etc. than us could be because even the not frum are more traditional and would rather eat at and from kosher places(if available). I have seen this also with SA expats.

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      1. Yes and all the issues are interlinked. That’s why there is effectively no reform. The strength of reform is inversely proportional to the quality of the frum community

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        1. Interesting idea.

          If it is true then we all have some serious soul searching to do as to why the frum community is not ‘up to scratch’!

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  2. New Yorkers are a different breed? Why do you make such sweeping generalisations? Why reinforce stereotypes of Jews? We have a great deal of achdus here in Melbourne as well. Seems as if you think Joburg is superior to here in every way. Sure you are not suffering from the grass is greener syndrome?

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    1. It’s actually you have read too much into my article.
      In terms of New Yorkers versus those from out of town, LA or Chicago etc it was pretty obvious in general. We usually had a 90% hit rate in guessing where they were from.

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  3. The explanation for Adass’s separatism is very simple: it is a direct result of the Austritt movement in Hungary, which was itself an extension of R Shamshon Refoel Hirsh’s Austritt movement in Germany. Hungarian Austritt meant that the Hungarian Orthodox kehillah must be 100% self-sufficient, and not join with communal organisations, no matter how frum, that don’t themselves practise Austritt. Given that history the surprise is that Adass does participate in the communal eruv, rather than making one of its own. This is their history and derech that they have received from their grandparents and from the great poskim and gedolei hatorah who instituted it, and there’s no point in criticising it. If they had settled in South Africa they would surely have done the same.

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    1. Ahem, they have a separate Eruv, and they now have Divrei Emuna a break off school from their school!

      They are SO far removed from the ways of those who set up Adass!

      The VAST majority daven Nussach Sefard and are anti the State of Israel

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      1. Numbers? What proportion of the overall community do they represent?
        This may not be so much about unity (though, of course it plays a major role) as of homogeneity, since I believe, the vast majority of the community derive from Litvisher antecedents.

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      2. The Adass are part of the Eruv and they have mashgichim inspecting it. The smaller Eruv “belongs” to one family in Adass. It is not an Adass Eruv.

        I can’t see where being “anti the state of Israel has to do with this. The majority of Adass are not Satmar or such. And they would be no more anti israel than the ones setting up Adass. There were satmarers also in those days.

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        1. There is a vast difference between the old timers and the young bucks.

          Divrei Emunah is the tip of the ice berg.

          If Adass don’t find a diplomatic and charismatic figure after Rav Beck, they will split.

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      1. Hi Meme. Apparently Kingklip is a different fish to snoek. The latter has never had an issue with Kashrus, while kinglip has been at the center of controversy. It’s the same issue as Ling in Australia and the same as in South America.

        Here it has been withdrawn, but in SA they now say it is Kosher but not Mehadrin-which is a very strange ruling for a fish.

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  4. Here are just a few recollections of our SA trip which was some years ago.
    We were walking in Oudshorn, the capital of ostrich feathers which was run in the past mainly by Jews. I was probably talking to my wife in Hebrew, and a gentleman approached me to invite me for Mincha Ma’ariv. If you are a Jew you cannot hide in a crowd.
    We were staying in Sandton (a suburb of J’burg) in a hotel in the shopping complex. My wife was shopping and spotted a dress she fancied, but it needed alteration. It was a Friday and the lady in the shop said it will be ready the next day – Saturday. We told her that we cannot pick it up on that day. Hearing that she asked us: “Why? Are you Jews?” We said “yes, we are”. She assured us that there was no problem with that. We can pay her now and pick up the dress on Shabat. And she continued: “the hotel is in the same building complex; therefore you have no problem with an ERUV.”
    It was a surprise to find a shopkeeper (probably not Jewish – no MEZUZA on the premises – but having Jewish clients) in SA teaching me HALACHA.

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